Explore Dakhla: Oasis Between the Atlantic and Sahara

Located in the far south of Morocco, in the Western Sahara, Dakhla is a meeting place for people, travelers, the ocean, and the desert. Getting there, whether in transit or at the end of a journey, is an experience of a gentle disorientation that takes a few days to fade away. This is quite fortunate because here, in Dakhla, a thousand miles from any inhabited land, nature, though fragile, takes its time.

Prepare for your trip with our partners:

• Dakhla, the edge of the Moroccan world.

• A sought-after passage territory in the Sahara.

• Dakhla: a bay, winds, and sun.

• Nomadizing in Dakhla: a user's guide.

• Practical information.

Dakhla, the Edge of the Moroccan World

Dakhla is not a rock or a cape. Dakhla is a peninsula. A peninsula upon which a city of the same name has grown. A city lapped by the waves of a bay: Dakhla Bay. It is located at one of the ends of the world, on the shores of the Sahara and the Sahel.

Villa Cisneros, as the Spanish colonizers named it in the region in 1884, was shaped by the sands of time, the winds, the waters, and the sun. Dakhla's natural alchemy is disorienting. So, let's establish some reference points together.

The city of Dakhla is situated 30 kilometers north of the Tropic of Cancer, sharing the same latitudes as Havana, Guangzhou, and Hawaii. It's 650 kilometers south of Laayoune, 1,690 kilometers from Rabat, and only 370 kilometers north of the Mauritanian border.

The peninsula barely exceeds 2 kilometers in some places. It stretches 40 kilometers south from the mouth of the Oued Ed Dahab River, which means "River of Gold" in Arabic – water flows in it only during the rainy season, and gold has never flowed there!

Between the mainland and the peninsula, the bay extends for 37 kilometers and covers an area of 400 square kilometers. In Dakhla, the terrestrial and aquatic spaces are now doubly recognized by international conventions RAMSAR and ZICO, focused on the protection of wetlands and birds, respectively.

A Sought-After Passage Territory in the Sahara

The first inhabitants of Dakhla were humble fishermen, continuing until the 14th century. Their land was desertic and almost untouched. The Sahrawi tribes of the region used to be nomadic here.

The first colonizers were the Spanish. In 1504, the Pope granted them the colony. In 1884, they began the construction of the city, Villa Cisneros. They built a church, established a colony, and exploited the fishing resources. In 1925, the French Aéropostale set up a base there, creating a stopover between Casablanca and Dakar.

Spain withdrew from Western Sahara, where Dakhla is located, in 1976, granting 80% of the territory to Morocco and 20% to Mauritania, without consulting the Sahrawis. In 1979, Mauritania ceded its share of the Sahara to them. Since then, a diplomatic, political, economic, and military conflict has raged between the Moroccans and the Polisario Front. The former annexed the zone corresponding to Western Sahara in 1979 and have been administering it in practice. The latter seeks their independence to create the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR).

In 1991, a ceasefire, facilitated by UN mediation, was concluded, but the matter remains unresolved. The United Nations, represented by the MINURSO mission in the region since 1991, positions itself as a guarantor of peace, awaiting a self-determination referendum that has been delayed. Currently, Dakhla is the capital of the Moroccan province of Oued Ed Dahab Lagouira.

This territorial dispute has not hindered the growing influx of tourists since 2008, who come to succumb to the charms of Dakhla. Seasonally, campers and kitesurfers occupy the bay and enjoy its gentle and temperate winds in winter. Surfers, on the other hand, challenge the waves on its Atlantic coast.

Dakhla: A Bay, Winds, and Sun

"During my wanderings, I quickly understood that the bay is the beating heart of the city of Dakhla, the source of its energy and dynamism, the essence of its allure," writes Leïla Slimani in her book "La baie de Dakhla, itinérance enchantée entre mer et désert." Traveling to Dakhla for a few days allows one to physically feel the attraction exerted by this bay.

Dakhla Bay is fascinating. It has an air of the edge of the world, a pristine bubble. In the morning, it awakens shrouded in a light mist. The distant continent, just a handful of kilometers away, gradually appears, motionless and rocky – the Sahara. Sheltered from arid wrath, the traveler shivers on the peninsula. Today, the wind comes from the west, and the trade winds are refreshing. Yesterday, the hot eastern sirocco prevailed. The traveler quickly learns that in Dakhla, the bay is subject to the winds. Here, the winds are the true masters.

The surf camps located around the lagoon are quiet. Among them, a reference and a pioneer, Dakhla Attitude, has been offering its services since 2008. Today, other surf camps offer relatively similar services, including Dakhla Spirit, Auberge des Nomades du Sahara, and Océan Vagabond.

Kitesurfers, who occupy the bay from late February to late October, are still asleep. At low tide, the bay belongs to the early risers, walkers, dreamers, and fishermen. Within it lies Herné Island, known as the "Dragon Island" because of its shape. It's a mysterious island with hidden beaches and underwater meadows, accessible only at low tide. For the rest of the day, it is surrounded by the bay's waters.

Its best profile is visible at PK25. The Point Kilometer 25, in full, is located at the entrance to the Rio de Oro Peninsula. It's an institution for campers, with about a hundred choosing to stay there for the winter. The value of the spot lies in the hot and sulfurous water source. A delightful shower is guaranteed. PK25 is also well-known among kitesurfers for its consistent winds.

Nomadizing in Dakhla: A User's Guide

Once you've explored the city center of Dakhla, its municipal market in the Massira district, the nearby clothing souk, and its clean streets, it's time to venture further. To discover the many facets of the local natural paradise, it's best to have a vehicle, unless you're motivated to brave the winds on foot or by bicycle. Van lifers and campers have a distinct advantage. However, pedestrian travelers can rent cars from many agencies (4x4 or standard, starting at a minimum of €20 per day).

Beyond the city center, distances quickly become substantial. It takes around 10 kilometers to reach Westpoint or Oum Labouir Beach. Internationally renowned, the surf spot on the Atlantic coast is accessible by car. Oum Labouir provides an electric, wild counterpoint to the peaceful bay. It also takes about ten kilometers to reach the southern tip of the peninsula, Lassarga, the fishermen's village also known to surfers for its wave.

By broadening your exploration, you can discover the White Dune, still relatively confidential, only accessible by a 4x4 on a track 50 kilometers from the city. It will delight kitesurfing enthusiasts and lovers of geological curiosities. This is the charm of Dakhla: whether you want to confront the elements or admire them in awe, its doors are open.

On the road to the south, travelers can attempt to get lost in a distant excursion to the endless beaches of Puerto Rico, 80 kilometers south of Dakhla. This is where they will reach the point of no return, their ultimate isolated and desert bivouac, on the road to the south and Mauritania... where the Sahara regains its dominance.

Source: https://www.routard.com/reportages-de-voyage/cid139395-maroc-dakhla-l-oasis-entre-atlantique-et-sahara.html

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